Introduction

If you're diving into this narrative without first reading Exploring Life in Cairo, Egypt — Part 1, I recommend you do so. The initial article provides essential context about my experiences in Maadi, a suburban area in Cairo.

Background

April 29 - May 15, 2022

We recently returned from our second trip to Egypt since relocating there. I can confidently say that I will never view Egypt as just a travel destination; it feels like a second home to me.

One of the most notable changes was the introduction of a new freeway system. With numerous new bridges, interchanges, and wider, freshly paved lanes, the traffic experience from Maadi to New Cairo has significantly improved. I vividly remember the chaos of traffic during my first year in Maadi, where cars were packed tightly, and honking was incessant. Drivers often ignored lane markings, and it was not unusual for three lanes to morph into four. I was genuinely frightened by the driving habits I witnessed, often keeping my bus curtains closed. For a long time, I thought Egyptians were terrible drivers. However, I came to realize that it was simply their style, and perhaps their skill was evident, as I never witnessed an accident during my three years there. The new freeways are a welcome enhancement to Cairo's traffic dynamics.

Accommodations

During our trips to Cairo, we opted for Airbnbs in the neighborhoods we once inhabited instead of hotels. For around $60 per night, one can find a charming two-bedroom apartment complete with a kitchen, living room, dining area, and a full bathroom. Many units feature a balcony, courtyard, or screened porch. However, I would advise against this choice for first-time travelers to Egypt, as the cultural differences may be overwhelming. More experienced travelers to developing nations would likely adapt better.

Cairo offers a variety of upscale hotels, from those by the Nile to those near the Pyramids. Options range from the luxurious Four Seasons to the elegant Marriot Mena House, which overlooks the Pyramids and includes a golf course and spa. We initially stayed at the Holiday Inn Citystars Cairo before transitioning to our apartment. This hotel is conveniently attached to Citystars Mall, which provides numerous dining options and a cinema, making it a great way to acclimate to our new surroundings.

While residing in Maadi, we found the Le Meridien Pyramids Hotel & Spa to be a delightful weekend getaway.

Local Experiences

During our stay, we caught up with friends and explored our favorite restaurants and shops, only ordering a car when necessary. Walking was our preferred form of exercise during vacations. Always pack good walking shoes!

A beloved American restaurant and a quaint gift shop have become favorites.

A neighborhood vintage clothing store and a cozy café are also must-visit spots.

No trip would be complete without a visit to the Pyramids, especially for a photo op in a friend's restaurant t-shirt from Charlotte, NC.

The Grand Mall, as mentioned in Part 1, remains a highlight.

We discovered our favorite restaurant and bar on Road Ten in Maadi, famed for the best drinks in all of Egypt and fantastic Italian cuisine.

Bella Figure's owners are delightful, and they easily accommodate large group reservations. With so many friends to connect with before leaving, we reserved a private dining area for a farewell gathering that everyone enjoyed.

Cultural Observations

While Maadi features beautiful apartment buildings and villas, the streets can be quite dusty and in need of repair.

The surroundings leading to the more affluent neighborhoods often appeared littered. However, I did notice a reduction in the amount of garbage left lying around. Additionally, the presence of stray dogs in small packs was an initial concern for me, though I soon learned they posed no threat. However, my dislike for cats remained unchanged, as many still roamed the streets.

Many expatriates are relocating from Maadi to New Cairo and beyond, where the newer apartments and villas boast beautiful gardens and are often situated in gated communities. These areas include amenities such as swimming pools, restaurants, and well-maintained sidewalks, reminiscent of gated communities in the U.S. The business district is home to modern high-rise buildings. During our visit, we met friends in these communities and agreed we would have chosen to live in New Cairo had we had children during our time there.

Some gated communities in New Cairo feature golf courses with lush landscapes. Since locals typically do not play golf, these courses are often uncrowded and frequented by expatriates. The clubhouses are luxurious, with spa facilities. My favorite is Katameya Dunes, which includes a hotel and spa that I enjoyed during my visit.

Another stunning community is Madinaty, located about thirty miles from Maadi. This gated community features a beautiful waterfall at its entrance. During our visit, we discovered that they had built a large mall, Open Airmall, complete with various shops and restaurants.

Travel Tips

As mentioned in my previous article, I recommend considering a twelve-hour layover when traveling internationally. It’s an excellent opportunity to explore an unfamiliar country. On this trip back to Egypt, we arranged a twelve-hour layover in Paris, France. My husband had never been there, so he booked tickets for us to visit the Louvre Museum. We also explored the Arc de Triomphe and the Eiffel Tower, enjoying a meal at an outdoor café nearby.

Given our fondness for train travel, we thought taking the train from the airport to the Louvre would be ideal. However, I strongly advise against this if you're not fluent in French—opt for a taxi instead. While we managed to navigate the train system, it was frustrating and time-consuming, especially when a car is readily available upon landing. Ensure you only get into a taxi and not a private vehicle unless you specifically arranged an Uber.

When traveling internationally, I highly recommend reaching out to a trustworthy car service or arranging transportation with your travel agency upon arrival. Typically, drivers will be waiting for you with a sign displaying your name. At the end of my blog, I will include details about a reputable car and travel service in Cairo.

The primary reason for our return to Egypt this time was to attend the Engagement Party of one of our “surrogate” daughters, held on a large party boat on the Nile. The boat cruised for two hours, and the engaged couple made a grand entrance via speedboat, adding to the festivities.

The party was lively, filled with dancing and quality time spent with friends and family.

Memorable Meals

During my time living in Egypt and on return visits, I've cherished meals shared with friends and family.

This was a traditional Egyptian meal prepared for my cousins visiting from the USA while we lived in Egypt.

This breakfast was served to us at a friend’s home during our last visit in May 2022.

Exploring Egypt

Old National Museum

During our three years in Cairo, visiting the old National Museum was a personal highlight. For museum enthusiasts, entering the museum feels like stepping back in time, with many statues larger than life and intricately carved. The museum is vast, filled with ancient artifacts, yet it only showcases a small portion of its collection. Fortunately, the new Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) is set to open in Fall 2022. It is located in Giza and overlooks the Pyramids, making it a must-see for future travelers.

Felucca Boat Rides

Another favorite activity was taking Felucca boat rides along the Nile. Most weekends, we enjoyed one to two-hour trips for around ten US dollars total, not per person, plus tips.

These traditional wooden sailboats, without motors, can comfortably accommodate up to sixteen people. We often opted for evening rides to witness the sunset while enjoying a picnic dinner with friends.

Traveling Throughout Egypt

Nile Cruise

Of course, the ultimate experience is a Nile Cruise. This large riverboat offers sleeper cabins and is akin to a smaller cruise ship. We took our cruise in 2015, flying from Cairo to Aswan and then cruising to Luxor, where we returned to Cairo by flight. The beauty of the Luxor temples is indescribable, and standing before the grand statues and King Tut's tomb is a breathtaking experience.

Day Trip Options

Ain Sokhna

For day trips, we organized a group of ten to visit Ain Sokhna, about an hour and a half from Cairo, where we enjoyed a relaxing day by the water.

Alexandria

Alexandria, rich in history, offered stunning views for me. We often took the train to spend the day at seaside restaurants overlooking the Mediterranean, which provided breathtaking scenery.

Fayoum

Fayoum, a peaceful desert oasis south of Cairo, features a natural waterfall in the desert—a truly beautiful sight for picnicking or horseback riding.

Dahab

Dahab stands out as one of the most serene places, known for world-class scuba diving. The atmosphere is laid-back, with no high-rise hotels or chain stores in sight. Local vendors and diverse restaurants create a unique experience. Our favorite accommodation was the Coral Coast Hotel, where we spent many school vacations.

The Box Meal, a small restaurant in Dahab, offers some of the best Asian cuisine I've ever tasted. They prepare everything from scratch, so expect to wait for your meal, but it's well worth it!

Final Thoughts

These experiences were all made possible on a teacher’s salary. From my travels elsewhere, I can confidently say that Egypt provides the best adventures for your money.

It's crucial to ensure you're in good hands while traveling.

For reliable tours in Egypt, I recommend visiting:

www.overegypttours.com

This company is co-owned by Samir and his brother Ayman, who have provided us with excellent local car services since our arrival in Cairo in 2015. Their drivers are courteous and accommodating, and you can easily communicate your needs directly with Samir via text.

In closing, if you've ever considered traveling to Egypt, I hope this narrative inspires you to explore the exciting experiences that await!

Safe Travels!